I spent $5,700 to travel to Antarctica on an expedition cruise ship. Here are 9 things I think everyone should know before going.

• Tourism to Antarctica is booming post-pandemic, with an expected 100,000 people visiting this season.
• I voyaged to the continent on Intrepid Travel’s expedition cruise ship and it was a life-changing experience.
• Here’s what to expect on the one-in-a-lifetime adventure, from facing the Drake Passage to riding zodiacs.

When I first decided I wanted to go to Antarctica, I had no idea where to start.

I knew a few things, like the fact I’d need to travel by ship and leave out of South America, but I was pretty naive to factors like costs and how to pack.

But, after a wild adventure across the infamous Drake Passage and plenty of amazing experiences on my seventh continent, I’ve learned where I went right, and where I went wrong.

Here are the 9 things I think everyone should know before leaving on Intrepid Travel’s nearly two-week “Best of Antarctica” voyage.

1: Yes, it will cost you an arm and a leg to get to Antarctica. But, you can get a cheaper rate if you’re willing to share a cabin with a stranger.

Because the white desert is so isolated, it takes a lot of time, fuel, and manpower to get there, forcing companies to charge a pretty penny for the once-in-a-lifetime trips.

For my nine-day cruise, I paid $5,700 for a triple interior cabin, which came with single beds, one shower, and two random female roommates.

My rate was purchased as a Black Friday sale in November 2019, though I was slapped with a $456 “fuel surcharge” in August 2022 due to rising prices.

Rising fuel costs, as well as surging demand, are pushing rates up, with the most expensive cabins — singles and suites — going for $10,000 to $18,000 during Intrepid’s 2023/2024 season.

Source: Intrepid Travel

These rooms are private and can be booked by a solo traveler, though rooms with double beds will require an additional single supplement charge.

Source: Intrepid Travel

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According to Intrepid, its twin, triple, and quad rooms are shared, though its Ocean Endeavour only puts three people in its four-person cabin. However, contact the company if you’re unsure about your rooming selection.

Source: Intrepid Travel

The base rate I paid for the tour included three meals a day, a hotel stay for the night before embarkation, expedition guides, and all the Antarctic sightseeing. But, it wasn’t my only expense.

I also had to pay about $1,000 total for roundtrip flights from the US to Ushuaia via Buenos Aires…

…as well as $300 for camping and $150 for snowshoeing. The latter I had to sign up for on the boat, though neither excursion went due to poor weather at the landing sites

The boat has WiFi, but its unavailable more times than not, and it costs $20 for 30 minutes, $50 for 90 minutes, or $100 for 200 minutes. I bought 90 minutes for emergencies.

Souvenirs from the boat’s onboard shop, as well as alcohol from the bar, were also an additional cost. However, Intrepid allowed us to bring wine and beer for free.

2: You will leave out of southern cities in South America, and getting there isn’t always easy.

My cruise departed out of Ushuaia, Argentina, which is the world’s southern-most city. Some ships leave from other places, like Punta Arenas, Chile, but I will focus on my experience getting in and out of Ushuaia.

I was booked on flights on Aerolineas Argentinas from Miami to Buenos Aires to Ushuaia, and back the same way. But, the airline changed my return flight from Buenos Aires, not only amending the time, but also the arrival airport.

Instead of flying into the international airport and easily connecting to my Miami-bound flight, I was re-booked onto a flight to the domestic airport, which is about 45 minutes away by car — and my connection was shortened to just two and a half hours.

It was a stressful journey home, to say the least, but Aerolineas put me on standby for an earlier flight from Ushuaia to help me out.

Although I got lucky, I would not fly out the same day as disembarkation if I were to do it again. Instead, I would fly out the next morning, giving me more time between flights, as my return to Miami left at 11:30 p.m.

3: You don’t need to bring a lot of clothes, but don’t forget things like binoculars, hand warmers, sunscreen, and ChapStick.

When checking in at the hotel in Ushuaia, I saw people with several large suitcases and carry-ons, as well as backpacks and camera bags. And that was all for just one or two people.

What I learned is that you can survive with one checked bag, or even just a carry-on and a personal item — which is the route I took.

The reason I say to pack light, assuming Antarctica is your only stop on this trip and you don’t require extra items for personal reasons, is three-fold.

One — heavy jackets and muck boots are included in Intrepid’s tour price, and the same goes for most other operators, so you can leave those at home.

The windproof and waterproof parkas are typically a bright color and will keep you warm off the ship. Intrepid allowed us to keep our Kathmandu puffer, but the parka and boots were for rental only and provided after embarkation.

Two — the ship is hot, so you will not need to wear layers on the boat, and only closed-toed shoes are allowed.

I suggest rotating T-shirts, leggings, and jeans, and only bringing one pair of good tennis shoes. You won’t need heels, hiking boots, or sandals, unless, of course, you’re spending extra time in another destination before or after Antarctica.

Three — laundry onboard the Ocean Endeavour was $39 for a full load of clothes, and some companies offer the service for free.

Moreover, Intrepid’s tour is in Antarctica for up to four days, so you only need a few layer pieces — especially if they are merino wool, which is anti-odor and can be worn several times before washing.

The one thing I regret not bringing is a pair of binoculars as it would’ve made the sometimes distant wildlife much easier to see. But I’m glad I brought my SPF 40 chapstick and hand warmers, the latter I actually preferred for my boots.

4: The Drake Passage is no joke, so do not forget seasickness medicine.

TikTokers are sharing harrowing videos from the extreme waters of Drake Passage — a shortcut to Antarctica with some of the choppiest water in the world

Videos on social media over the past few weeks have painted a worrisome picture of the rough sea between South America and Antarctica. And, they aren’t too far off.

On my trip, 30+ mile per hour gale-force winds and some 15-foot waves rocked the boat back and forth, making it difficult to walk, causing food to fall off tables, and knocking some passengers out of their beds at night.

The journey through the Drake lasted about two days each way, and the movement made a lot of people seasick. Fortunately, I avoided the nausea thanks to the Scopolamine patches prescribed by my doctor.

I didn’t experience any side effects from the patch, like blurry vision, though some did. So, I recommend bringing an additional anti-nausea medicine, like Dramamine, but don’t use them together.

5: This is an expedition, so don’t expect to drink mojitos by the pool or see Broadway performances in a giant theater.

The Ocean Endeavour is a robust polar ship built for cruises to the Arctic and Antarctic, so it comes with the essentials, like cabins, lounges, and a dining room.

It also has an onboard spa, a gym, a pool, and a hot tub, but that’s about as far as the luxuries go. And, as you can imagine, the pool was never open, and the jacuzzi was only available half the time.

There is no casino, no steakhouse or sushi bar, and you can forget about a dance club. But, that doesn’t mean you won’t feel at home in your tiny Antarctic community.

The small, 200-person ship made it easy to meet other travelers and socialize. Many people played games in the lounges, while others spent time reading or streaming pre-downloaded movies and TV shows.

Moreover, the tour guides prepared daily science presentations, which covered everything from polar birds and seals to tectonic plates and the history of Antarctic expeditions.

Fortunately, I ended up meeting nine other travelers on my first day — some solo and a few in pairs — and we spend the entire trip together. So, don’t be worried about going alone as there will be others wanting to make new friends.

6: You will get wet on the zodiac boats, and it can be a bumpy ride.

Once cruise ships arrive in Antarctica, they can’t actually dock at any landing site. Instead, a fleet of rubber zodiac boats is used to ferry passengers to and from shore.

The boats carry up to 10 people and are operated by expedition guides. Guests will either go to land and walk on the continent, or spend time zipping around just looking at the glaciers, icebergs, and wildlife.

When in the zodiacs, the weather can change dramatically and rough waves can make the ride a little nerve-wracking. The photos below were taken about 25 minutes apart.

Considering you can have sunny skies one minute and blizzard conditions the next, you need to be prepared to get wet. Intrepid required us to bring waterproof pants — I went with REI — and those that didn’t could buy some onboard.

While the zodiac is really fun, unfortunately, there have been a few deaths this season due to people falling off.

Source: Travel Weekly

With that said, it is extremely important to use care when getting on and off the zodiacs — don’t be afraid to take assistance from your guides — and only stand when given permission.

7: There are strict rules to follow when stepping on Antarctica.

According to the International Association of Antarctic Tour Operators, which encourages responsible travel to the continent, 100 people from a single vessel can be on each landing at one time.

This means our 200-person boat broke up landings into groups. If you make it to shore, be aware that you cannot let anything touch the ice, except for your boots and walking sticks.

This is to prevent the spread of the avian flu that has been impacting some bird populations, and IAATO worries it could reach the Antarctic penguin populations.

All guests were instructed to sterilize their boots and trekking poles before leaving the ship. Moreover, we were told to have our cameras out and ready before getting off the zodiac.

8: Things will likely not go to plan, so expect itineraries to change and be flexible.

While Intrepid planned to spend four days in Antarctica, our trip was cut short to just two and a half days due to a monster storm.

The captain explained the reasoning and while we were all disappointed, we understood the urgency of getting back to Argentina safely.

What I learned is to be ready for plans to change, whether that means not getting to camp, not doing a specific shore landing, or being forced to go home early.

For example, Intrepid told us we’d be landing at a site with a scientific research station, but ice prevented us from going to shore, so we spent hours on the zodiacs instead.

However, this actually provided the best view of whales, seals, and icebergs, so I didn’t mind. I decided early that I’d just go with the flow and enjoy my time on my seventh continent.

9: Going to Antarctica is not 100% environmentally friendly, though Intrepid tries.

According to a study from NC State University, tourism to Antarctica could stress out and distract penguins on Barrientos Island — one of the most heavily visited areas on the continent.

Source: NC State University

Co-author Yu-Fai Leung said the penguins may already be adapted to humans since people have been visiting the area since 2005, but IAATO still needs to “balance tourism demand with conservation needs.”

Source: NC State University

In addition to potentially harming wildlife, cruise ships are inherently bad for Earth’s oceans. However, Intrepid says it does carbon offset, uses biodegradable cleaning products, and collects sustainability-related scientific data on every voyage.

Source: Intrepid Travel

Moreover, it did not offer a lot of fish onboard because it could not find a sustainable provider. Though, it still had some fish for those with certain dietary needs.

While I try to be environmentally conscious in my day-to-day life, I was also aware of the impact of going to Antarctica and planned accordingly, like reading IAATO’s recommendations and listening to my guides.

At the end of the day, I don’t regret going to Antarctica, and each person can make that decision for themselves.

It was truly a life-changing experience thanks to the knowledgeable guides and the amazing people I met onboard.

And don’t skip the polar plunge, if you can. You’re attached to a rope and given a shot of vodka afterward to warm you up — it was quite a thrill!

This content was originally published here.